Oct 04

Gabriel Patrick, my September Angel

a photo of Gabriel whittling

At long last, Gabriel is the proud owner of a pocket knife! To date, he still has all 10 digits.

Another September has come and gone. I can already feel the days getting shorter and the light is definitely beginning to wane. Always a month of transition, September has been particularly difficult for me the past five years because the fourteenth of the month marks the untimely death of my father.

Although that day was particularly hard (something about hitting the five-year anniversary made this year worse than the last few for me), September also marks another major milestone in my life: the anniversary of the day I became a mother–Gabriel’s birthday. So after trying unsuccessfully to put a coherent post together on my feelings about the loss of my father for nearly three weeks, I’m going to bag the sad middle of the month and move straight on to the happy ending :)

I’ve already weighed in on G’s super-star birthday party, but since the craziness of the party last week, I’ve had more time to reflect on the little man himself and on the journey we’ve undertaken together. Read the rest of this entry »

Sep 25

A Photo Journal of Andalucía

It’s almost time for fall break and choosing this year’s destination was tough. I’m still acting like a kid in a candy store when it comes to planning holidays even though we’ve been in Finland–and therefore tantalizingly close to some of my all-time favorite places–for close to a year now. I mean, I can fly to Norway for cheaper than I used to be able to fly to Phoenix. Need I say more?

At any rate, after lots of thought and discussion, we chose to return to Provence. But I was really, really tempted to revisit Andalucía. So when I heard that a friend was heading to Spain next week with a rather open itinerary, I had to put together my visual case for visiting Andalucía. It’s been nearly ten years since we were there, but it still stands out in our minds. The food, the amazing melding of European and Muslim architecture, the beauty of the hilly terrain dotted with olive trees…Highly recommended. So here goes… Read the rest of this entry »

Sep 24

Never say never

Photo from the State Library of New South Wales collection (http://www.flickr.com/photos/statelibraryofnsw/)

When Gabriel was about 18 months old, I got together with a group of my friends from college. Several of us had children within a few months of each other, so there was a lot of talk that weekend about how life had changed and what we had to look forward to as our children grew. One friend who had older brothers told us about a recent birthday party she’d attended that involved pony rides, a cowboy, and goodie bags that cost roughly $20 a pop. We all howled about how ridiculous that was and about how we’d never, ever, ever do that.

The kids’ first few birthday parties held true to my proclamation. But that’s easy in Boulder County, where dressing up often meant pulling on the new Icebreaker or Mountain Hardware hoody and putting on the dressy jeans that weren’t frayed at the bottom from wearing them with flip-flops. Birthday parties there usually involved playing out in the back yard and oodles of home-made whole-wheat cupcakes, with a few gluten/dairy/soy/corn/nut free ones for the children with food sensitivities. Favors I offered in the past included little pots filled with dirt and basil seeds, home-made play dough, and little bouquets of natural dye-free lollipops. Read the rest of this entry »

Sep 08

Naerofjorden & Aurlandsfjorden

photo of mountains outside gudvangen

The mountains outside Gudvangen

As a long trip comes to a close, you always hope there will be something spectacular left so that you can head home on a high note. I wish I could take full credit for the stunning end of our journey in Norway, but I have to admit that it was luck that we did the tour counter-clockwise, leaving the beautiful Naerofjorden & Aurlandsfjorden area for last before returning to Oslo.

Once again, it took a train, a bus, and a boat for us to make it to Flam and the delightful Freitham Hotel, but the views from each were nothing short of amazing. Plunging waterfalls, steep cliffs, and green so lush that it almost glows leave you rubber-necking the entire trip. Between Matt & I, we took nearly 1500 photos in just under 2 weeks and many of them came in the last two days.

The boat between Gudvangen and Flam in particular was gorgeous, although getting a good seat involved some quick and aggressive maneuvering. Gudvangen is at the end of Naerofjorden, the narrowest fjord in Norway, and Flam, our destination, is at the end of Aurlandsfjorden. Although the two fjords meet inland, you still get to see two different types of fjord landscape during the several hours of the cruise.

Still, we wanted to see the fjords even more close-up, so we took the Fjord Safari that leaves from Flam and retraces the route of the much larger ferry boat. With only ten passengers and a boat that put us right at water level, it was a fun and fast-paced way to take a second look at the scenery. As if we’d called ahead, the sun returned for this portion of the day, making the views even more beautiful.

Waiting for us back in Flam was an expensive but decadent dinner from the Freitham Hotel’s famous buffet. Full of locally cured meats, hand-made cheeses, and lots of traditionally-prepared fish, this buffet was worth the price in terms of exposing us to the best foods of the region. The next day, we were restored enough to venture of a fairly lengthy hike to a waterfall overlooking town before boarding the Flamsbana railway that would climb steeply up toward Myrdal, where we caught the bus back to Oslo and caught our flight back to Helsinki.

This trip was without a doubt on my top five list, even though many of the others on that list were completed in what seems like total luxury (i.e. without children!). It not only showed us an amazing cross-section of exquisite Norway, but gave us hope that the children (now aged 5 and almost 7) are very nearly old enough to keep up with our globe-trotting ways.

Sep 07

Bergen

a photograph of the Norwegian coast

The coast between Alesund & Norway is dotted with tiny islands

We returned to Ålesund just long enough to board the Hurtigruten bound for Bergen. This was the one part of the trip when I felt that Fjord Tours sort of dropped the ball–at no point during booking do you realize that you can’t get on this boat until after midnight! That left us hanging out at the port in Ålesund, which, for the record, has no waiting room of any kind. Since we had children in tow, hanging out in a bar wasn’t an option either, so we ended up in the Radisson Blu. I suspect it wasn’t the first time that people bound for Bergen crashed in their lobby, and they do have an assortment of snacks and drinks, as well as comfy couches, to make the late hour a bit more comfortable.

The accommodations on the Hurtigruten are typical of larger cruise ships–single bunk beds and a bathroom that is clean and functional, but barely large enough to turn around in. We were not able to figure out any sort of family room, so we booked two doubles and split up–one adult with each child (another reason I’m glad we opted for only one night on the boat!). Read the rest of this entry »

Sep 06

Day Trips from Helsinki – Porvoo

porvoo

Waterfront with Porvoo Cathedral in the background

Heading east from Helsinki on the King’s Road (Kuninkaantie), you can reach the charming river-side town of Porvoo in under an hour. From May to September, you can also reach Porvoo by boator cruise there and take a bus back to Helsinki to save a little time (the boat ride is just over three hours, while the bus takes under 90 minutes).

One of several medieval towns in Finland, Porvoo was founded in the 14th century and many of the old wooden buildings and narrow cobblestone streets remain. Made famous (in Finland at least) by the paintings of Albert Edelfelt, it is a scenic town where many of the beautiful old buildings now house good restaurants and shops selling Finnish artisanal goods. Read the rest of this entry »

Sep 05

Day Trips from Helsinki – Mustion Linna

Mustion Linna

Mustion Linna is a great day-trip from Helsinki

Taking advantage of the nice days and the new car, we headed west of Helsinki for a trip down the King’s Road to Mustion Linna. This eighteenth-century manor house brings together neo-classical and rococo architecture in what is the largest wooden house in Finland. Although we opted out of the one-hour tour of the manor house due to antsy children, we enjoyed a really spectacular lunch at Slottskrogen, featuring lots of locally produced and traditionally prepared goodies. The children particularly enjoyed their menus, which were children’s books with menus pasted into the front. We spent about two hours wandering around the lovely grounds before driving just over an hour back to central Helsinki. Definitely worth the visit!

Sep 01

Ålesund and Beyond!

photograph of Ålesund

Ålesund is a lovely harbor town, rebuilt in 1904 in Art Nouveau style...

We left Oslo via train and headed north to Dombås and then on to Åndalsnes on what ended up being quite a scenic ride on the Rauma Railway. While the first leg of the journey cuts up the middle of Norway and takes you past Lillehammer and the home of Peer Gynt, the second leg winds slowly down into the Rauma River Valley across amazing bridges and towering cliffs typically named after trolls! Read the rest of this entry »

Aug 31

Wordless Wednesday – Lily in Porvoo!

a photo of a little girl under a statue in Porvoo, Finland

Lily taking in a statue in Porvoo, Finland

Check out today’s other Wordless Wednesday submissions too!

Aug 30

Pirate Beach, and Other Foibles of the Expat Life

a photo of the beach

This is Helsinki, but it's not real life...

When I went to live in France as a student in 1996, I had the choice of living on the International floor in the dorms, living with a host family, or living in an apartment with French students. At a time when I was particularly interested in asserting my independence, but still keen to immerse myself in French culture, I chose to live in an apartment. It was an amazing experience, not just because my roommates were quirky, artsy types who did things like going about their business in the apartment communicating only by pantomime or bundling me off to a French improvisational theater where they performed (best thing that ever happened to my abilities with the French language!), but because I was absolutely thrown into French life with only sporadic emails or even more infrequent phone calls to root me to my home and family back in the United States.

I expected an easier transition when we went to England in 2001, in part because my favorite partner-in-crime was in tow, in part because of the lack of language barrier. For a variety of reasons, September 11 and a much longer stay among them, it was much more difficult than my time in France. It was almost like the hint of familiarity brought the differences into sharper focus.

I have to admit that I had very little idea what to expect when moving to Finland with the children. Read the rest of this entry »

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